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Indoor Substrates for Star Tortoises
and other dry area species

Indian Star tortoises have funny, bulbous noses. Like Elmo. :O)
Indoor substrates
The choice of substrate is important because your tortoise spends most of his time on it when indoors. If it's too wet, he may develop shellrot, respiratory infections, and other health problems. If it's too dry, he may become dehydrated. And if you have allergies, it must be something that doesn't make you sick!
Currently, one of the most often recommended indoor tortoise enclosure substrates is plain garden soil, top soil, or potting soil with no fertilizer, perlite, or other additives. A common formula is to mix the soil with play sand. Start with a 50/50 mix and then adjust the ratio as needed. You can use more sand for tortoises from very arid habitats, but tortoises from humid habitats may prefer more soil.
Many tortoise keepers also mix play sand or soil with coconut coir as a 50/50 or 30/70 blend. If you use a lot of sand, it's a good idea to provide a sand-free eating area to avoid intestinal impaction (blockage) which can be deadly. In addition, tortoises may develop irritated eyes if the sand content in the enclosure is high. If that happens, you can try using sterilized soil as the only substrate.
Soil needs to be watered regularly, or it will get dry and dusty under the hot heat lamps. However, if the soil is too wet, it turns into messy mud. You can try putting a layer of bark chips on top of the soil to help prevent this.
A soil based indoor substrate should be changed to a fresh one frequently, otherwise it can become a breeding ground for all kinds of bugs. Always keep the enclosure as clean as possible. Any dirty substrate will encourage the growth of pathogens (microscopic organisms that can cause disease).
Thomas H. Boyer, DVM and Donal M. Boyer, a zoo reptile curator, discuss the captive care of tortoises in the 2006 book 'Reptile Medicine and Surgery' by Mader, MS, DVM, DABVP. They mention newspaper, crushed oyster shell, bark nuggets, peat moss, cypress mulch, and top soil as commonly used substrates. They also list carpets, corrugated cardboard, and fine hay as acceptable alternatives. Their advice is to avoid sand, gravel, clay cat litter, crushed corn cob, and walnut shells. (see Star books)
Philippe de Vosjoli, a pioneering herpetoculturist, recommends newspaper as an all-around indoor substrate, fir or cypress mulch for humid loving species, and potting soil for forest species. (Popular Tortoises, 2003, see Star books)
Lance Jepson, MA, VetMB, CBiol, MIBiol, MRCVS recommends a basic indoor setup with newspaper as a substrate. Newspaper is very easy to change when soiled. He feels that naturalistic substrates are too difficult to keep clean because they absorb tortoise pee and retain poop. (Mediterranean Tortoises, 2006, see Greek tortoise page)
Ian Recchio, a curator of reptiles and amphibians at the Los Angeles Zoo, recommends newspaper, terrarium carpet, wood bark chips other than redwood or cedar, and organic garden soil with no fertilizer. His advice is to avoid sand, coarse bark, and gravel (DIY, 2001, see housing links page).
Rabbit pellets and alfalfa pellets used to be popular indoor substrates for tortoises, but they are not recommended anymore because they are very drying, mold quickly, can cause infections, and may induce walking problems.
What works for one tortoise keeper, may not work in another person's setting. You may need to adjust your care and substrate choice based on your indoor setup, room humidity level, and your local area's temperature and humidity.

Coconut bark on reptile carpet
Substrates for Stars
Star tortoise keepers use various substrates in their indoor enclosures, including coconut bark, garden soil (topsoil, potting soil), soil/sand mix, soil/coconut coir mix, soil/sand/bark mix, hay, newspaper, shredded newspaper, reptile carpet (especially for babies or under loose substrates like hay and chips), indented paper, paper towels (especially for babies), coconut coir fiber (especially in mixes or humid hides), aspen chips or shreds, repti bark (fir), orchid bark (typically fir), and cypress mulch.
Coarsely ground bark with large pieces can create an unstable, difficult to walk on surface in the enclosure. Finely ground bark chips pack tighter making it easier for the tortoises to walk on it, but small pieces are also easier to eat and swallow.
I am concerned about using wood mulches or chips with my Stars. They are silly little torts who like to eat loose substrates! Luckily, they are smart enough not to eat reptile carpet or artificial plants. Not even if they are green in color. :O)
Also, most wood chips, mulches, and soil mixes give out odors that irritate my asthma and allergies. Of the loose substrates, dry coconut bark chips seem to smell the least. Read more about wood chips and other substrates on the allergic keepers p.1 page.
Digging & burrowing
Outdoors, Star tortoises are not big diggers, but they may scrape the surface of the dirt when they settle under plants. They do not dig long and deep tunnels like tortoises of some other species.

My Sri Lankan and Burmese Star tortoises love hiding under tufts of grass.
This Burmese Star is sunning herself while staying partially hidden.
Captain Thomas Hutton wrote some of the earliest observations of Indian Star tortoises' habits in their native land in 1830's. As described in the 1864 book 'Reptiles of British India' by Günther (see books), Hutton comments how Indian Stars "remain in concealment beneath scrubs or tufts of grass during the heat of the day." During cold weather, they also protect themselves by "thrusting their shells into some thick tuft of grass and bushes."
The above description from the 1830's India fits my Star tortoises perfectly. My Sri Lankan and Burmese Stars also like to hide and sleep under plants, or in their hide boxes, instead of digging into dirt or substrate. They love hiding under clumps of long grass! :O)
Indoors, Star tortoises may burrow into a loose and soft substrate, especially if they have no other acceptable hiding places, or they are tiny babies (babies hide a lot). I provide my Stars multiple hiding places indoors. These include humid hides, dry hides, and various artificial stemmed plants.
If your baby tortoise likes to dig and you are allergic to soil mixes and/or other 'diggable' substrates in large quantities, you can put a 'digging box' into the enclosure. Just use a low-sided container, or a large reptile bowl with a ramp, and fill it with a loose and odorless substrate. You can also cover 1/3 to 1/2 of the tub floor with the substrate, or just pile it in a corner.
Whatever loose substrate you use, it should be something that doesn't harm your baby tortoise if it's accidentally eaten. If swallowed, sharp particles may pierce the alimentary canal, and chips and sand may cause impaction (intestinal blockage). Both can be fatal.

Ramp bowl filled with moist sphagnum moss
Reptile cage carpets/mats
Finding the best indoor substrate is one of the most common discussion topics among tortoise owners. If you have asthma and allergies, like me, you have the extra challenge of finding a substrate that doesn't aggravate your allergies! Allergy wise, plain paper and soft reptile carpets are the only truly odorless and non-irritating substrates to me.
Reptile carpet is suitable for babies and youngsters with their small pee puddles and poop piles. :O) Thick, textured paper (see substrates) is more practical for tortoises in 6"-8" size and larger. It's easy to change daily.
Reptile carpets are NOT the most ideal indoor substrate, but they can work well for small, arid-area tortoises. Especially, if the tortoise keeper is allergic to other substrates.
Felt-like reptile carpets (not plastic astroturf) are soft, easily washable, odorless, provide a solid walking surface (not unstable like pellets or slippery like smooth paper), and keep the underbelly dry and clean (helps avoid shellrot).
The felt-like reptile carpets cannot be eaten, so they are very safe. Sometimes I just scatter weeds and greens around the Stars' enclosures. This imitates nature by allowing them to 'graze' for their food.
In addition, if a tortoise accidentally flips over onto his back, a felt reptile mat gives enough grip for the tortoise's nails to help him flip back. Fortunately, my Stars are not climbers. I have never seen them flip over, but I also avoid cage furniture that would allow them to do dangerous climbs.
Reptile carpets do not provide moisture, so they are not suitable for tortoises that require high humidity. Adding a humid hide to the enclosure provides a more moist sleeping and hiding area for dry area species. Reptile carpets, especially under the heat lamp, can also be doused with water to increase the humidity level inside the tortoise tub.
To help keep my Sri Lankan and Burmese Star tortoises hydrated, I give them humid hides, soak them frequently, keep water dishes in their enclosures, spray them with water as needed, saturate areas of the carpet with water, and even put wet washcloths under the heat lamps at times (see allergic keepers p.1).
Reptile carpets work best in enclosures with straight corners. In plastic tubs with rounded corners, the edges may lift up and allow to tortoise to go under the carpet. I put large flat tiles in the corners on top of the mat to prevent this.
Personally, I use smooth, soft, felt-like cage carpets by Zoo Med. They have no loops, no loose strings, and no odor. Plus, they are easy to find in pet shops. Currently, the largest ZM cage carpet is 48"x18" (60 gal) in size, so you'll need more than one for larger tubs. For example, for a 4ft x 2ft enclosure, I use two 48"x13" cage carpets. I also use Zilla terrarium liners because they come in a longer length. The largest size is 72"x18" (125 gal). I NEVER use plastic, fake grass mats (aka astroturf).
Indoor/outdoor carpets
Some people use indoor/outdoor carpeting in their tortoise enclosures. Outdoor carpeting is available in custom sizes cut from large rolls or as ready-made rugs. However, these carpets and rugs often have little loops on them that can catch tortoises' nails when they walk.
Some outdoor carpets are also made of materials that give out irritating odors, or even toxic fumes. Allergic and asthmatic people can be especially sensitive to them.
Tortoise scraping the carpet
If you have provided your Star tortoise with several different hiding places (humid & warm hide, dry & cool hide, artificial plants, etc.) and he still scrapes the cage carpet with his front claws, he obviously likes to burrow. Give him at least a spot of some substrate that allows him to do this.
If you are allergic to most loose substrates, you can put large pieces of crumbled, preferably inkless, paper in one corner of the tub. Your tortoise can 'burrow' under them and feel safer. If you use thick enough paper, like brown grocery store bags or embossed Kraft paper (see Allergic Keepers p.1), you can even moisten it for additional humidity.
Caution: Crumpled paper can be a fire hazard! Place it far away from any light or heat source in the tub. Tortoises may even push or carry the crumbled paper pieces on their backs and place them under a heat lamp.
Also, adult, egg-laying females need a deep nesting box or nesting area filled with soil.
Non-allergic & non-asthmatic readers
My tortoise tubs may seem very artificial looking to non-allergic and non-asthmatic tortoise keepers, but because I keep my indoor tortoise pens in my living areas, it's important for me to keep them as clean, odor-free, and allergen-free as possible.
I am not advocating felt-like reptile carpets as the best substrate to use, but as an acceptable alternative for arid area species keepers who are allergic to other, more natural substrates.
Note: IF YOU ARE NOT ASTHMATIC AND HAVE NO SEVERE ALLERGIES, just replace the felt-like reptile carpet (not fake grass astroturf) with a more natural substrate like soil or mulch. :O)
Cleaning & washing reptile cage carpets
The felt-like reptile carpet absorbs tortoise pee, but you should pick up any poop as soon as possible to prevent smearing, pathogen growth, and parasite proliferation. This is true for any indoor substrate. If your tortoise passes normal, solid poos (pic), they are easy to pick up.
I wash the reptile carpets frequently and also clean the entire indoor enclosure at the same time. I hose and spray the mats outside, but you can also use a bucket. I let them dry in the sunshine when possible. These carpets can also be disinfected (kill pathogens aka destroy disease-causing bacteria, viruses, and fungi), but they need to be rinsed well afterwards.
Some people have trouble keeping their reptile cage carpets odor free. Probably because they don't change them often enough and/or don't wash them thoroughly. Reptile cage carpets require frequent washing. They are not a low maintenance substrate!
Tips:
1) Change the reptile mats frequently, before they develop odor. Weekly cleanings may work well. However, sometimes I have to change the reptile carpets 2-3 times a week. It all depends on how big the tortoises are, how much time they spend outside, how many baths they get, and so on.
2) If stubborn stains are present, soak the cage mat first or let it sit wet for a while to loosen the dirt. If needed, you can also easily disinfect the cage carpet. First hose it wet, then spray on a reptile-safe disinfectant, e.g. Zoo Med's Wipe Out 1 terrarium cleaner, and let sit. Or soak in a bucket with disinfectant. After 10-20 minutes, hose and rinse the mat thoroughly. Wipe Out 1 kills many common bacteria, including Salmonella and Pseudomonas.
3) Hosing the mats with a sprayer on Adirondack type garden chairs works well for me. The openings in the chair back and seat let water pass through. Spray both sides thoroughly and hang to dry. If you use the same chair for mats from different tortoise species' enclosures, disinfect the chair or let it dry in the hot sun in between.
4) Most important! Let the cage mats dry outdoors. I've noticed that drying my reptile mats outside in the sun and wind really helps to keep them odor free. Letting the mats dry indoors may leave them with a hint of smell, especially if you don't use a disinfectant.
Reptile carpets can be machine dried as well. I've never put mine in a dryer, so I don't know if this would make the mats too soft and 'floppy'. Besides, I would not wash and dry any reptile items in my own washer and dryer!
Reptile carpet vs astroturf - What's the difference?
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OK - pressed felt reptile carpet
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NOT - astroturf (plastic grass)
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Even though many people use the word 'astroturf' to describe reptile cage mats, astroturf is NOT the same product as pressed, felt-like reptile carpets.
Astroturf is actually a brand name of artificial turf, but it's also used as a generic name to describe all synthetic grasses. I'm using the term here with its generic meaning.
Basically, astroturf is artificial grass made from plastic. Astroturf has plastic grass blades, felt carpet does not.
I do NOT use plastic grass mats. They are non-absorbent (stay wet from pee, unhealthy), feel unpleasantly plasticky, and the cut edges may unravel and wrap around the tortoise's feet or neck. In addition, the grass-blade-like texture may encourage some tortoises to eat it.
Pressed, felt-like reptile cage carpets have a smooth surface, no blades. These mats look and feel like thick, soft felt. They are soft, absorbent, odorless, not slippery or unstable, safe, cannot be eaten, and are fairly easy to clean. They last a long time, wash after wash, and are thus quite economical in the long run.
Reptile carpets do not provide humidity, so additional humid areas and/or hides are needed. They are not the most ideal substrate to use, but they are an alternative for allergic owners who cannot tolerate other substrates (e.g. garden soil or bark mixes).
Reptile mats can be labor intensive, especially if you have several enclosures, because they need to be washed frequently. Though, with this frequent cleaning, the enclosures stay super clean and odorless. That's good news for allergic and sensitive individuals who keep their indoor tortoise tubs in their main living areas.
Read more about indoor substrates, especially from an allergic person's point of view, on the allergic tortoise keepers p.1 page.
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