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Indian Star Tortoise
Burmese Star Tortoise
Other Starred Tortoises
Angulate Tortoise
Misc. Pages
Tips:
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A must-have book for all current and prospective Star owners!
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Star Tortoise Housing p.1
Star residence & general care
Sri Lankan Star tortoise
Intro
The Indian Star tortoise is closely related to the Leopard tortoise from Africa. Thus, most Leopard tortoise care info also applies to Star tortoises (Indian, Sri Lankan, Burmese). Both Stars and Leopards are herbivorous grazers and require warm, fairly dry conditions, but Leopards grow much larger than Star tortoises. Sulcatas and Mediterranean tortoises have similar diet and environmental requirements as well, but Sulcatas need large accommodations due to their huge adult size, and Mediterraneans often like to dig and burrow (unlike Stars). Most of the so called Mediterranean tortoises hibernate, but Stars, Leopards, and Sulcatas do not.
Basic enclosure set up
This starter set up for a baby tortoise is based on an open-topped, minimum 30" (76 cm) long container. Various plastic tubs, self-build wooden tortoise tables, acrylic tubs, or reptile enclosures with low 8-12" (20-30 cm) sides can be used for this purpose. Choose a tub that is as long as possible to create a heat gradient with warmer and cooler ends. If you use a see-through container, cover the back wall and the sides with paper on the outside. Additionally, add a few inches of cover along the bottom of the front panel. Preventing see-through will help your new tortoise feel safer and more at home.
Generally, totally enclosed vivarium type reptile tanks and cages (boxes with closed top and front) are not recommended as tortoise habitats, especially for dry area species. They usually have limited floor space, a decreased air flow, and often provide a poor temperature gradient. Large, open topped enclosures are best for tortoises. Even a mesh screen top can filter out much of the beneficial UVB rays from the UV bulbs.
Let your tortoise enjoy the natural sunshine outside whenever the weather is warm enough. The more the better. The cost of setting up an outdoor enclosure is not included here. This is just a listing of start-up costs for a small, indoor baby tortoise pen.
First, try to learn as much as you can about your tortoise species' diet, natural habitat, and captive care requirements. For example, find out what the temperature and humidity ranges are in the wild, and what type of vegetation grows in the native area. Then build your habitat based on this info. Observe your tortoise in his enclosure to see what agrees with him and what doesn't, and adjust your care accordingly.
Now, there's a lot of conflicting tortoise care info in tortoise books and especially on the web. Read as many sources as possible, and then decide what's right for you and your tortoise in your specific circumstances. Be flexible and adjust your habitat and care if needed. There is no one correct way to care for tortoises, but do provide the correct ranges of temperature, humidity, and diet for your species to keep him healthy and active. Use common sense and create your own care plan. In other words, do what works for you and your tortoise. :O)
Below is a rundown of items needed to put up a young Star tortoise and the associated costs. These prices were charged by local pet stores in my area in 2008, but prices may vary a lot from store to store. Items go on sale, too.
Suggested minimum supplies
- Enclosure tub, UVB and heat bulbs with fixtures for day time, ceramic heat lamp for nights, hide boxes and other cage furniture, plants to hide under, substrate, water dish, food dish or tiles, bath/soaking dish, thermometers, humidity gauges, calcium powder, multivitamin and mineral supplement, cuttlefish bones (all explained below)
Optional items
- Deep dome light fixture for a UVB/heat combo bulb (mercury vapor bulb, MVB), lamp stand, extra clamps and safety covers for clamp lights, thermostat or rheostat, power center timer, water dechlorinator and detoxifier, terrarium background, temperature gun, scale, UV meter, Mazuri tortoise diet (all explained below)
Enclosure/tub - subtotal $14.99 and up
- $14.99 and up - A large plastic storage box, min 30" long. The container needs to be as long as possible so that you can have a temperature gradient with a warmer end and a cooler end.
- You can use various plastic storage boxes as an indoor tortoise enclosure. For example, a Rubbermaid or Sterilite plastic tub, an underbed sweater box, an Iris Christmas tree storage box (only available around Christmas time), an Ikea wardrobe box, a Vision reptile tub, a Laguna pond tub with a flat bottom, or a Waterland land tub (land enclosure, not water tub). You can also use a farm stock tank (poly
or steel), a wooden tortoise table, or a large and low-sided glass or acrylic tub.
- If you use a glass tank, choose one that is big and has low sides (max 12-13", 30-33 cm). The minimum size tank to use for a baby tortoise is a long breeder tank with a floor space of 30"x12" and 12" high walls. However, this tank is so small that your baby will quickly outgrow it at about one year of age, depending on his size. Some people find it's easier to keep the temperature and humidity up in a glass tank. This can be a good thing or a bad thing depending what you are trying to achieve (humid vs dry habitat). Never put a glass tank in direct sunlight, it can become a deadly heat trap.
- Some plastic tubs (often black in color) may emit a strong plasticky or other smell before they air out, or even permanently. I avoid plastic products made with PVC (polyvinyl chloride or vinyl), a known toxic. PVC products can be identified with number 3 or letter V, but not all products are marked. Plastics labeled as #1 PET, #2 HDPE, #4 LDPE, #5 PP, and PLA are considered safe. For more info, see links on the allergic owners page.
- Unfinished wooden tortoise tables may emit a strong wood odor. Particleboard, plywood, and fiberboard may also give off odors. In addition, they contain formaldehyde which is a known carcinogen, bronchial irritant, and asthma trigger. See the allergy page.
- I keep my tortoises' enclosures in my living quarters, not in a separate room or shed. Thus, I do not like pens that emit any kind of odors because I am often allergic to them. I do a smell test of the material before buying, if at all possible.
- As your baby tortoise grows, he will require larger and larger indoor pens. Small tanks or boxes of any kind are not suitable enclosures for older, larger tortoises. Tortoises need room to wander. The more the better.
- Wooden tortoise tables (boxes without lids) are popular because they are cheap, easy to build, and can be made in any size. They must be moisture proofed, and in large sizes they get heavy and difficult to move. Light-colored Vision plastic tubs, made of food-grade high-density polyethylene (HDPE), are an alternative to wooden tables. The largest available Vision reptile tub is 6.3ft x 3.3ft (76"x40") with 22" high walls. Acrylic enclosures are very lightweight, but have see-through walls. The largest open-topped acrylic enclosure with low 12-13" walls that I found is 6ft x 2ft (72"x24") in size. Both Vision and acrylic tubs are easy to clean and suitable for allergic owners.
- Another non-wood choice is the Waterland land tub. They are made of black HDPE and are available in several sizes. The land tub models have a 3/4 land area and a 1/4 water area. The water area is perfect for moist or wet substrate, and the low divider ramp helps keep it in place. The medium land tub size is 70"x32". However, these tubs seem to give out a slight material odor, which is not good for my allergies. Plus, I don't much care for the obtrusive black color because my indoor tortoise tubs are located in my main living areas.
- Many tortoise owners advice against see-through walls in tortoise tables because some tortoises may desperately claw the walls in an effort to get out. However, I have never seen my Star tortoises do that. They seem to know exactly where the wall ends, even if it's see-through. The acrylic (plastic) enclosures I use have a 1" high black plastic strip along the bottom of the walls. Maybe that's enough for them to recognize where the wall ends. Or maybe they are just smarter than the average tortoise. :O) Even so, I do always cover the back and sides of the see-through enclosures, and I provide many hiding places for my Stars.
Of all the places in the enclosure, she chose to sleep right next to the see-through front panel of the tub. Even when awake, she doesn't mind me pressing my nose against the wall and looking right at her. :O)
Heating & lighting - subtotal $120.47 and up
- $29.99 - A min 30" long strip light fixture or a shop light, to hold a linear (long) UVB fluorescent bulb
- $23.49 - A min 24-30" Reptisun 5.0 UVB or 10.0 UVB
 fluorescent tube bulb (not coiled) to fit the above fixture, the bulb length depends on the fixture model
- Reptisun brand linear bulbs are popular, but there are others. You'll need a separate bulb for heat if using a fluorescent bulb for UV.
- Another UVB bulb I use in my indoor tortoise enclosures is the T-Rex Active UV Heat
mercury vapor bulb (MVB) which provides both UV and heat. This bulb is larger and deeper than regular bulbs, so it requires a larger holder, e.g. a 8-10" wide deep dome light fixture. Because I don't want the bright light to shine into my eyes, and I only use 100W MBV's, the deep dome fixtures work well for me. Ideally, a MVB bulb should be positioned vertically, in other words, straight down. It gets very hot and provides a very bright light. MVB's have high wattage, typically 100-275W. Thus, they may not be suitable for very small enclosures. Follow the manufacturer's advice for the minimum installation height, and double-check that your light fixture takes the high wattage of your MVB. For example, my deep dome fixtures are rated to take max 160W bulbs. Then just adjust the bulb height up or down (but above min installation height) to achieve the ideal basking temperature. Avoid touching, bumping, and moving these bulbs to prevent early burnout. If a MVB goes off, just wait. This bulb will turn itself off if it overheats. After a few minutes, the MVB will turn back on by itself, if it's not burned out. Some tortoise keepers use wire deflectors with MVB bulbs, especially with the higher wattage ones, to help prevent bulb overheating. Also, if turned off on purpose, the MVB will not relight for at least one minute. It's recommended to wait 5-10 minutes before turning the MVB back on. Other brands of MVB's include Mega Ray and Powersun.
- UVB bulbs need to be changed every 6-12 months because their UV output degrades over time. MVB's are more expensive than linear fluorescent UVB bulbs, but their output last longer. You can track the UV levels with a Solarmeter (scroll down to 'gadgets').
- $10.99 - A 5.5" clamp light fixture with a ceramic socket to hold a standard-sized basking bulb, or a regular household light bulb, for daytime heat and basking. Check the wattage rating on the fixture to be sure it takes the wattage of your heat bulb. For example, the 5.5" clamp fixture is only rated for a 75W bulb, or less.
- You might want to consider purchasing a reptile lamp stand, especially if you are using a large UV/heat combo bulb (MVB) with a deep dome fixture. These stands are adjustable in height and depth, and allow you to position the lights exactly where you want them. They come in two sizes. The larger model, LF-20, is better suited for UV/heat combo lamps. The larger foot on the LF-20 makes it more stable to hold such a large and heavy light fixture.
- Some plastic containers have an extremely slippery surface. This can cause a clamp light fixture to slide down to one side, or even fall off, and create a fire hazard. Using a lamp stand with a light fixture that has a metal loop hanger (not a clamp light) will prevent this, but you can also secure clamp lights with an extra clamp. I use welding ground clamps for this purpose because they have a very strong grip, but other heavy-duty steel spring clamps
work as well. Plastic cable zip ties
are great for securing loose cords.
- You can also buy a clamp lamp safety cover
that snaps onto the light fixture. If the light falls down, the hot bulb cannot touch the ground or your tortoise. A good safety precaution if you leave lights on when you are not home. Unfortunately, the fit isn't always perfect if you mix brands. For example, trying to attach a ZooMed cover to a Fluker's clamp lamp.
- Further, UV and heat lamps can be installed securely by suspending them from sturdy ceiling hooks or wall brackets.
- $9.99 - A 50-75W reptile basking bulb for heat. Always adjust the number and wattage of heat bulbs to fit the size of your enclosure by measuring the warm and cool end temps.
- $34.99 - A 60W ceramic heat emitter. It emits heat but no light, so it's an ideal night heater. You might need higher wattage or more bulbs in a larger enclosure. If you buy a higher wattage bulb, doublecheck that your light fixture is rated for that wattage.
- $10.99 - A 5.5" clamp light fixture with a ceramic socket for the heat emitter
- Some people also use Zoo Med and other undertank heat mats when additional night or day heat is required. The big plus of undertank heat mats is their low wattage. For example, the 6"x8" ZM under tank heat pad uses only 8 watts. However, most tortoise experts recommend an overhead heat source, NOT an undertank heater. They feel that bottom heat is unnatural for tortoises, and may even harm them (e.g. intestinal ruptures from excessive belly heat).
- If you do use an undertank heat pad anyway, do so with some cautions. ZM undertank heat pads can only be used on glass tanks. They should not be used on acrylic tanks (may crack), plastic tubs, or wooden boxes. Follow the instructions for installation and use, and do glue the small rubber feet (provided with the heat mat) under the glass tank to create some air space underneath to help prevent overheating. The undertank heat pad must be placed the outside of the enclosure (bottom or side), never inside. If you place the mat under the floor, test the temperature in several spots inside the tank at the substrate level. Or the very least, do a temperature check with your hand. The glass above the heater should feel pleasantly warm to your hand, not too hot. Attaching the heat mat to the tank wall is the safest way to use it.
- Ideally, use a thermostat or a rheostat with ceramic heat emitters and heat mats to control the temperature. A thermostat turns the heater on and off or regulates the electricity as needed based on the enclosure temperature. For example, the Zilla Temperature Controller lets you adjust the heat level to 60-105 °F and the Zoo Med ReptiTemp
thermostat to 70-110 °F. A rheostat is a dimmer switch that regulates the flow of electricity on a constant rate based on the user setting. Many people like thermostats better because they are automatic and will adjust the enclosure temperature if the room temperature goes up and down. Mercury vapor bulbs cannot be used with dimmers or rheostats, but you can use a timer (automatic on/off) with them.
- I have many of my enclosure lights and heaters plugged into power center timers with multiple outlets. This way they will go on and off automatically AM and PM. Not a necessary item, but very handy to have.
- A note about electricity usage... Out of curiosity, I tested my UV and heat bulbs with an electricity usage monitor. My 100W UV/heat mercury vapor combo bulbs actually use 114-120 watts! In comparison, a 20W linear (long) UV fluorescent bulb and a 75W reptile heat bulb use 87 watts combined. My 60W ceramic heat bulbs use about 59 watts, and 75W reptile basking bulbs use about 72 watts.
- Indian, Sri Lankan, and Burmese Star tortoises like warmth. The temperature in the indoor enclosure should be about 90-100+ °F in the basking area under the heat bulb, and about 75-80 °F in the cooler half during the day. This way you'll have a temperature gradient of 70-100 °F inside the pen, and your tortoise may select the temperature zones he wants. Night time temperature can drop to 70 °F or so. During cold winter nights, I use ceramic heat emitters to keep the tubs warm enough for my Stars, if needed. Through the warm summer, no additional indoor night heat is required if the room temperature stays around 70 °F.
Enclosure supplies - subtotal $66.40
Substrate
- $13.99 - A 2-pack of soft Zoo Med reptile cage carpets or Zilla cage liners (NOT plastic astro turf) and/or other suitable substrates like garden soil, see section 'More on substrates' below
- Finding the best indoor substrate is one of the most common discussion topics among tortoise owners. If you have asthma and allergies, like me, you have the extra challenge of finding a substrate that doesn't aggravate your allergies! Allergy wise, plain paper and soft reptile carpets are the only truly odorless and non-irritating substrates to me. Of these two, I much prefer the felt reptile mats.
- Reptile carpets are not the most ideal indoor substrate, but they can work well for small, arid-area species. Especially, if the owner is allergic to other substrates. Felt-like reptile carpets (NOT plastic astro turf) are soft, easily washable, odorless, provide a solid walking surface (not unstable like pellets or slippery like paper), and keep the underbelly dry and clean (helps avoid shell rot). The felt-like reptile carpets cannot be eaten, so they are very safe. Sometimes I just scatter weeds and/or greens around the Stars' enclosures. This imitates nature by allowing them to 'graze' for their food.
- In addition, if a tortoise accidentally flips over onto his back, a felt reptile mat gives enough grip for the tortoise's nails to help him flip back. Fortunately, my Stars are not climbers. I have never seen them flip over, but I also avoid any cage furniture that would allow them to do dangerous climbs.
- Some people use indoor/outdoor carpeting in their indoor tortoise enclosures. Outdoor carpeting is available in custom sizes cut from large rolls or as ready-made rugs. However, these carpets and rugs often have little loops on them that can catch tortoises' nails when they walk. Some outdoor carpets are also made of materials that give out irritating odors, or even toxic fumes. Allergic and asthmatic people can be especially sensitive to them.
- Personally, I use smooth, soft, felt-like cage carpets by Zoo Med. They have no loops, no loose strings, and no odor. Plus, they are easy to find in pet shops. Currently, the largest ZM cage carpet is 48"x18" (60 gal) in size, so you'll need more than one for larger tubs. For example, for a 4ft x 2ft enclosure, I use two 48"x13" cage carpets. I also use Zilla terrarium liners because they come in a longer length. The largest size is 72"x18" (125 gal). I NEVER use plastic, fake grass mats (aka astro turf).
- Reptile carpets work best in enclosures with straight corners. In plastic tubs with rounded corners, the edges may lift up and allow to tortoise to go under the carpet. You can put large, flat tiles in the corners on top of the mat to prevent this.
- I clean the entire enclosure and wash the reptile carpets routinely. I just hose and spray the mats outside under high water pressure. I let them dry in the sunshine when possible, but they can be machine dried as well. I've never dried mine in a dryer, so I don't know if this would make the mats too soft and 'floppy'. Besides, I would not wash and dry any reptile items in my own washer and dryer! These carpets can also be disinfected, just be sure to rinse well.
- The felt-like carpet absorbs tortoise pee, but you should pick up any poop as soon as possible to prevent smearing and pathogen growth. This is true for any indoor substrate. Pathogens are microscopic organisms that can cause disease. Disinfecting kills pathogens aka destroys disease-causing bacteria, viruses, and fungi.
- Reptile carpets do not provide moisture, so they are not suitable for tortoises that require high humidity. Adding a humid hide to the enclosure provides a more moist sleeping and hiding area for dry area species. Using humid hides for tortoises is debatable though. Many tortoise breeders and researchers believe they help prevent pyramiding, while others do not.
- Star tortoises are not diggers. My Stars like to hide and sleep
 under plants or in their hide boxes instead of digging into dirt or substrate. If your baby tortoise likes to dig and you are allergic to soil mixes and/or other 'diggable' substrates, you can put a 'dig box' into the enclosure. Just use a low-sided container, or a large reptile bowl with a ramp, that can be filled with an odorless substrate that allows digging. You can also cover 1/3 to 1/2 of the tub floor with the substrate, or just put it in a corner. Whatever substrate you use, it should be something that doesn't harm your tortoise if it's accidentally eaten. If swallowed, sharp particles may pierce the alimentary canal and chips and sand may cause impaction (intestinal blockage). Both can be fatal.
- Star tortoise owners use various substrates in their indoor enclosures, including coconut bark, top soil, soil and sand mix, soil and coconut coir mix, soil and sand and bark mix, hay, newspaper, shredded newspaper, reptile carpet (especially for babies or under loose substrates), indented paper, paper towels (especially for babies), coconut coir fiber (especially in mixes or humid hides), aspen chips or shreds, repti bark (fir), orchid bark (fir), and cypress mulch. What works for one person, may not work for another person's setting. You'll need to adjust your care and substrate choice based on your house's and/or area's temperature and humidity.
- I am afraid to use any wood mulches or chips with my Stars. They are silly little torts who like to eat loose substrates! Luckily, they are smart enough not to eat reptile carpet or fake plants. Not even if they are green in color. Also, most wood chips, mulches, and soil mixes give out odors that irritate my asthma and allergies. Read more about chips and other substrates on the allergic tortoise owners page.
Reptile carpet vs astro turf - What's the difference?
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OK - pressed felt reptile carpet
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NOT - astro turf (plastic grass)
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Astro turf is NOT the same product as pressed, felt-like reptile carpets. Astro turf is artificial grass made from plastic. Astro turf has plastic grass blades, felt carpet does not. I do NOT use plastic grass mats. They are non-absorbent (stay wet from pee, unhealthy), feel unpleasantly plasticky, and the cut edges may unravel and wrap around the tortoise's feet or neck. In addition, the grass-blade-like texture may encourage some tortoises to eat it. Pressed, felt-like reptile cage carpets have a smooth surface, no blades. These mats look and feel like thick, soft felt. They are soft, absorbent, odorless, not slippery or unstable, safe, cannot be eaten, and are fairly easy to clean. They last a long time, wash after wash, and are thus quite economical in the long run. They do not provide humidity, so additional humid areas and/or hides are needed. They are not the most ideal substrate to use, but they are an alternative for allergic owners who cannot tolerate other substrates (e.g. garden soil mixes, see below under 'more on substrates'). Reptile mats can be labor intensive, especially if you have several enclosures, because they need to be washed frequently. Though, with this frequent cleaning, the enclosure stays very fresh and totally odorless. That's good news for allergic and sensitive individuals who keep their tortoises in their living quarters during the winter and not in a separate room or outdoor shed.
Eating & drinking dishes
- $9.99 - A water and/or feeding dish, or just use any low sided dish or lid
- I prefer Exo Terra's granite rock food dishes (not the higher water dishes) because they are low, heavy, very stable, and don't tip over when my turtles walk all over them. The smallest size with the lowest sides is best for a baby. Little ones can climb in and out of it fairly easily, but it's still large enough for a baby tortoise to soak himself. These dishes are made of hard, food-grade resin. Eating on a hard surface is beneficial for tortoises as it may help prevent beak overgrowth.
- Another low reptile dish is the Zoo Med's repti rock food dish (water dish is higher). It's made of softer material though.
- To provide a hard eating surface, you can also feed your tortoise on a large tile or a big, flat rock. I buy tiles that have a somewhat rough surface and rounded corners for safety.
- Even though Star tortoises are native to dry areas, they need to be kept well hydrated. Hot basking lights and dry substrates (e.g. aspen, paper products) can be very drying. Because my Stars live on a dry substrate when indoors, I am always concerned about their hydration status. Some people keep a shallow water dish in the enclosure, some people soak their tortoises, and some, including me, do both. In addition, I furnish my Star enclosures with humid hides.
- If you use a water dish, check that the baby tortoise can get in and out of it easily. You don't want him to get trapped in it or flip over and drown. I keep the food and water dishes at the cool end of the enclosure.
- Baby tortoises can be soaked (bathed) daily in warm water for 10-20 minutes, and then less frequently as they grow older. Soaking may also help keep the enclosure cleaner because tortoises tend to poop while soaking in warm water. This concerns some tortoise owners, and they discourage constant soaking saying this frequent pooping may lead to reduction in nutrient intake. My Stars are used to frequent soaks, and they often bathe without pooping. :O)
- Some tortoises may find soaking stressful, but mine seem to enjoy their warm baths. It has become a familiar routine for them. In the winter, when my Stars live indoors, I usually soak them every other morning before feeding. In the summer, I usually bathe my tortoises briefly, for cleanup and hydration, when they come back indoors in the evenings. Afterwards, I provide them the opportunity to warm up under their heat lamps, if they so desire. I don't want my Stars to be wet and cold because they can be sensitive to damp, cold conditions. Warm moisture is ok though. Each of my tortoise groups has its own soaking/bathing pan to avoid pathogen transfer between species.
- My tortoises drink regular tap water, but I often let it sit in a large pitcher for 24 hours before use to reduce the amount of chlorine. Sometimes I put a few drops of ReptiSafe instant water conditioner into their bath water. It removes chlorine and chloramines, plus conditions the water in a few other ways.
- Many Star tortoise owners maintain a moderate humidity level of 40-60% in the indoor enclosures. Still, some say humidity for Stars should be less than 40%, and some say it should be as high as 75-90%. In general, a 45-55% humidity level is recommended for Indian Star tortoises.
- If you know the original location of your captive-bred Star's ancestors, you can try to adjust your enclosure temperature and humidity to match that area, and see if it agrees with your tortoise. Observe your tortoise to pinpoint what conditions he likes, e.g. at what temperature and humidity level he is most active.
Hide boxes
- $1.00 - A small plastic box to be used as a hide, just cut a door opening
- You can also use flower pots placed on their sides as hides, especially those pots made for wall display. They have one flattened side which helps prevent rocking of the pot hide. Wall flower planters are available in several shapes, e.g. round, oval, and rectangle. They are made of various materials
 like clay, plastic, stone, wood, and metal wire with replaceable coco fiber liners. In addition, regular flower pots in square and rectangle shapes can be positioned in the corners of the tortoise pen. Just check that the enclosure wall is high enough to prevent escapes if your tortoise manages to climb onto the top of the pot.
- $14.99 - Sphagnum moss, coconut coir, or other moisture retaining substrate for the humid hide box. Sphagnum moss is considered to be safe if digested, but my Stars didn't like it. I ended up using hides with wet sponges attached to the ceilings.
- Some tortoise keepers soak wooden log hides or clay flower pots in water overnight and then use them as humid hides. This method required two hides, one to use and another one to soak. Switch as needed.
- Newer research suggests that humid hides are important for baby tortoises and juveniles to help prevent excessive pyramiding (lumpy shell). However, some Indian Star tortoises, especially Sri Lankan Stars, may exhibit 'natural' pyramiding which may not be preventable.
- A dark hide is better than see-through, and the hide box should be big enough for the tortoise to turn around. Ideally, provide several hide boxes (moist, dry, cool, warm) in various locations, especially if you have more than one tortoise in the enclosure.
- For baby tortoises, I like to use dens made by Zilla called bark bends. They are realistic looking hollow logs made of hard, synthetic material that's easy to disinfect. They are dark colored inside, and both ends of the log are open. If you have two tortoises in the same pen, each always has a way out of the log without being blocked by the other one. For older
 youngsters, I use the largest size (giant, larger than XL) of Zoo Med's Turtle Huts. I wish they were dark inside though, instead of yellow. My Stars like the dark Bark Bends better, but they are only made in fairly small sizes. I do not use natural wood logs inside because I am allergic to the wood odor. Also, wood may mold and rot if there's moisture in the enclosure. All my indoor enclosure silk plants have rock or artificial rock bases, no wood.
- The hide all my Star tortoises like best is made from a light-colored plastic box. It has a wet sponge attached to the ceiling, and the sides are colored black and green on the outside with non-toxic markers. On the inside of the hide, it looks kind of like being under plants, green and darkish with some light coming through. Of course, if you use a dark-colored box, there's no need for coloring. See housing p.2.
- $11.45 - 5 ft of decorative aquarium or terrarium background at $2.29/ft, or any paper, for see-through or semi see-through tubs
Gadgets
- $3.49 and up - An analog or digital thermometer for one end of the enclosure. Dial thermometers with plain, light colored backgrounds, like solid white, are much easier to read than ones with colored picture backgrounds, especially from far away. Digital thermometers tend to be more accurate and not much more expensive. With these, often just the probe is placed inside the tub.
- $11.49 and up - A thermometer and hygrometer (a humidity gauge) set for the other end of the enclosure. Always check
 the temperatures at both ends of the enclosure to ensure an adequate temperature gradient. Measure the temperature at the substrate level where the tortoise lives. Ideally, use humidity gauges at both ends of the enclosure as well. I use a variety of thermometers and hygrometers, including analog, digital with no remote sensor, digital with a probe, and a temperature gun. Readings between different types of units may vary, so compare them.
- A temp gun, an infrared thermometer, is another useful gadget to have. I sometimes place my analog thermometers a bit higher up on the walls (1-3") because I only use them to keep my eye on any temperature fluctuations. Light-faced analog meters can be read easily from far away, unlike many digital displays. I use digital thermometers and a temp gun to measure temperatures inside the enclosures at various locations. A temp gun allows you to spot check any surface temperature in an instant.
- A small, handheld device called Solarmeter, model 6.2, can be used to check the UVB levels reptile lamps provide. With it, you can monitor the intensity and ageing of your UVB lamps, but you can only compare bulbs of the same type. The Solarmeter is very easy to use; just hold down the button and search for the area with the highest reading. Check the UVB readings when the bulbs are new and then periodically. The reading is displayed in microwatts (µw) per square centimeter. The general recommendation is to change UVB bulbs when their output has decreased by 30%. This device is not cheap, but it may save money in the long run because you won't need to change UVB bulbs prematurely. Plus, you know how much UVB your tortoise is actually getting. For more info, scroll down to links.
Other - subtotal $9.20 and up
- $1.20 - A plastic shoe box or other plastic container for soaking
- $8.00 and up - At least one tortoise care manual specific to your tortoise species. Learn as much as you can about your tortoise's diet and habitat requirements.
- Veterinary fees - health and parasite checks, medicines, and visits to the vet if your tortoise gets sick
- If your tortoise is young, it's beneficial and fun to create a growth chart for your baby. Record his weight and length at regular intervals. I use the My Weigh 7001DX scale. It measurers up to 15 lbs and is great for small tortoises. You can also draw the outline of your tortoise's shell on a piece of paper. Do this monthly on the same paper, and you can instantly see how much your tortoise has grown!
Food & diet - subtotal $18.87 and up
- Grasses, weeds, leaves, flowers, and cactus from your backyard are free, but you have to pay for foods from the market, feed store, or growers.
- $6.29 and up - Calcium powder, with D3 if kept inside. Plus a separate vitamin-mineral supplement. If you are sure your diet is spot on (hard to do), your tortoise may not need vitamin supplementation.
- $1.59 - Cuttlefish as a secondary calcium source. Biting on cuttlefish may also help prevent overgrown beaks.
- $10.99 - Mazuri Tortoise Diet, 1lb bag. Many tortoise owners feed Mazuri pellets once or twice a week as a supplement to greens (optional).
- For more diet info, see the Star tortoise diet page.
Grand total - $229.90 and up, plus the cost of your tortoise
Prices for Star tortoises vary by the individual, age, sex, type (Indian, Sri Lankan, Burmese), and breeder. Indian Star tortoises are at the low end and Burmese Stars at the high end of the cost range. Typically, prices for captive-bred Indian Star tortoise babies start around $300-$350, and for Sris about $100 more. Captive-bred Burmese Star babies cost around $900-$1,000 and up.
Of course, your housing costs will be different depending on how you set up the habitat. You can be very creative with it, but you should ensure that it's safe and has the proper lighting, temperature, and humidity for your tortoise species.
A few photos of Star tubs - suitable for allergic and asthmatic tortoise keepers
The tub itself, a 4ft x 2ft acrylic pen with low 13" walls, and all cage accessories are odorless and easily cleaned. This is important for severely allergic and asthmatic tortoise keepers, if they keep tortoise pens in the family living areas.
For this plastic tub with 12" high sides I used a 100W mercury vapor bulb (MVB, UV and heat combo) for day heat and a ceramic heat emitter for nights. Mercury vapor bulbs are large and require 8-10" deep domes. They also get very hot. Check the temps (hot and cool end) in the tub to ensure you are using the proper wattage for the size of the enclosure. Reptile lamp stands (pic) have a foot that goes under the enclosure for counter balance. This plastic box is so lightweight that I had to put a brick on the stand's base plate to prevent the stand from accidentally tipping over. If you use a see-through or semi see-through tub (pic), cover three sides of the tub with paper or terrarium/aquarium background. You can also cover the front wall or just the bottom 2-6" of it. I don't cover the whole front panel because I like to observe what my tortoises are doing. It is very entertaining, and I get to know their personalities and habits very well. My Sri Lankan stars are used to me having my nose pressed against the tub to watch them. :O) They don't mind my presence too much and just go on with their daily activities. Although I enjoy observing my tortoises, I handle them as little as possible. I only touch them when necessary, e.g. giving them a bath or moving them between the indoor and outdoor enclosures.
Here's another allergy-friendly setup I created from an underbed storage box. The substrate is coconut bark on top of a fabric-type reptile mat (NOT unraveling plastic astro turf). I later removed the coco bark because my Stars like to eat all loose substrates! Sometimes I vary the contents of the pen, but usually only one item at a time. This way the tortoises have something new to explore in familiar surroundings. Some Indian Star tortoises get stressed with unfamiliar or changing conditions, but my Sri Lankan Stars explore any new item excitedly and also check to see if it's edible. :O) In the wintertime, it could be difficult to keep a very low-sided enclosure like this warm enough for Star tortoises if your room is on the cool side.
Linear (long) fluorescent UVB lights and MVB's illuminate these 4ft x 2ft pens with low 13" walls. Acrylic pens are odorless, very light, and easy to move around. I put hides, artificial plants, and rocks in my indoor pens, but I leave lots of free floor space for the tortoises to move around. I am allergic to most odors and fumes, so I like to keep my enclosures clean. Good for my tortoises, and for my health, too! Everything I use inside is easily cleaned and disinfected. In the winter, additional heat is required to keep the night temperatures at acceptable level for Stars, unless you keep your house very warm. For night heating, I use ceramic heat emitters with thermostats (not shown), if needed. Fortunately, I live in a warm climate. My tortoises get to spend a great deal of time outside on real dirt, among real plants, and under the real sun. :O)
Here an artificial Christmas tree storage box (Iris model #251019, 52"x20") is used as a temporary isolation box. Everything inside the tub is either disposable (newspaper, cardboard hide box) or disinfectable (tiles). The newspaper is held in place by several heavy, flat tiles with rounded corners for safety. The MVB bulb provides heat and UV. These Iris boxes are stackable, so the lid can be used securely as an insulating base underneath.
Ps. If one of your tortoise is sick, he should ideally be housed not only in his own tub but also in a separate room away from your healthy tortoises.
Sometimes, I use two Iris Christmas tree tubs stacked up. Box on the top is the enclosure, and the bottom one is used a stand and storage bin for tortoise necessities. These boxes are odorless, light weight, and easy to move around.
My Stars like to spend time in their hides or under plants. I have lots of these silk palm trees with rock bases because they are stable, low, easy to clean, and provide wide coverage for hiding. The branches and leaves can be adjusted high or low, but my Stars are too smart to eat artificial plants anyway. After the first nibble, my Stars realize they don't taste good at all. :O) My tortoises can also walk over the flat bases, so no wasted space there. For more photos of allergy-friendly indoor enclosures and hide boxes, see the housing p.2.
General Star tortoise care info
More on substrates
The choice of substrate is important because your tortoise spends most of his time on it. If it's too wet, he may develop shell rot or other health problems. If it's too drying, he may become dehydrated. And if you have allergies, it must be something that doesn't make you sick!
Currently, one of the most often recommended indoor tortoise enclosure substrates is plain garden soil with no fertilizer, perlite, or other additives. A common formula is to mix topsoil with play sand. Start with a 50/50 mix and then adjust the ratio as needed. For very arid habitat species you can use more sand, and for tortoises from more humid habitats more soil may be preferred.
Many tortoise owners also mix play sand or topsoil with coconut coir as a 50/50 blend. If you use a lot of sand, it's a good idea to provide a sand-free eating area to avoid intestinal impaction (blockage), which can be deadly. In addition, tortoises may develop irritated eyes if the sand content in the enclosure is high. If that happens, you can try using sterilized soil as the only substrate. Topsoil needs to be watered regularly, or it will get dry and dusty under the heat lamps. However, if soil is too wet, it turns into messy mud. You can try putting a layer of bark chips on top of the soil to help prevent this.
A soil based indoor substrate should be changed to a fresh one frequently, otherwise it can become a breeding ground for all kinds of bugs. Always keep the enclosure as clean as possible, any dirty substrate will encourage the growth of pathogens!
In the book Reptile Medicine and Surgery (2006, Mader), T. H. & D. M. Boyer discuss the captive care of tortoises. They mention newspaper, crushed oyster shell, bark nuggets, peat moss, cypress mulch, and top soil as commonly used substrates. They also list reptile carpets, corrugated cardboard, and fine hay as acceptable alternatives. Their advice is to avoid sand, gravel, clay cat litter, crushed corn cob, and walnut shells.
Ian Recchio, curator of reptiles and amphibians at the Los Angeles Zoo, recommends newspaper, terrarium carpet, wood bark chips other than redwood or cedar, and organic garden soil with no fertilizer. His advice is to avoid sand, coarse bark, and gravel (DIY, 2001, below).
Read more about substrates on the allergic owners page.
[Note: Rabbit pellets and alfalfa pellets used to be a popular substrate for tortoises, but they are not recommended anymore because they are very drying, mold quickly, can cause infections, and may induce walking problems.]
Minimum pen size
Build your indoor enclosure as big as possible. The more time your tortoise spends inside, the larger it should be. Tiny hatchlings are the only exception. They spend most of their time hiding and thus don't need a huge enclosure. If your tortoise is lucky enough to spend most of his time in a large outdoor area, then the size of the indoor pen is not as critical.
There are numerous recommendations on how to calculate the minimum indoor tortoise pen size. Some say the length and width of the enclosure should be at least 5 times the length of the tortoise. Others recommend a pen size of 10 times the tortoise length by 5 times the tortoise length. Another option is to multiply the length of the tortoise by 8, and adjust the width as needed. Yet another way to figure out the minimum pen size is to allow at least 3 sq yds for each 12” of tortoise. Or use 100 sq in of space per 1" of tortoise shell.
All the formulas above provide minimum size estimates for a one tortoise indoor pen. You should probably add about 30-50% of floor space if you keep two tortoises in the same enclosure.
A few care tips for Stars
In general, keep Indian Star tortoises warm and dry, but do not allow them to become dehydrated. Stars are prone to respiratory problems if kept in too damp and cold conditions. Humid and warm is ok, wet and cold is not. A humid hide box may be beneficial, especially for babies and youngsters. For Indian and Burmese Stars, put the moist hide in a warm, but not hot, location. Often, half way between the hot and cool ends works well. Put dry hides in the cooler area of the enclosure. Indian Star tortoises are also susceptible to pathogens carried by other species of tortoises. Always keep Star tortoises with their own kind, and quarantine any new additions for 3-18 months minimum.
New tortoise
You should set up the enclosure before bringing your tortoise home. This way everything will be ready when you get him, and you can just sit back and enjoy watching your newest family member explore his new place. Or not... Tortoises may be shy and cautious in new surroundings for a while. If your new tortoise is hesitant to eat, offer him his favorite foods (ask his breeder what they are) and give him daily warm soaks. A warm bath often stimulates appetite. Otherwise, don't over handle a new tortoise, just let him be and settle into his new home. This may take a few days, several weeks, or even months.
Caution: If your tortoise appears lethargic, doesn't bask, and otherwise seems ill, take him to the vet for a check up. Tiny babies can become dehydrated very quickly. Read more about hatchling failure syndrome and soft baby syndrome [offsite links].
Other indoor set-ups
Bookcase tables
Many people like wooden tortoise tables. If you are not very handy with woodworking, you can make a tortoise table out of a bookcase. Buy a second-hand cabinet or a cheap, do-it-yourself bookcase and assemble it. Just take the shelves out, put it down on its back, and line it with some waterproof material such as a plastic shower curtain liner or a pond liner. Voila, you have a tortoise enclosure!
Note: Unfortunately, many cheap bookcases are made of particle board which can emit toxic odors (especially when new) that can cause itching, irritation, and asthma attacks in sensitive individuals. Solid wood bookcases with finished (sealed in on all sides) surfaces are a better choice for allergy sufferers. See the allergic owners page.
Bed frame enclosures
A twin-sized, wooden bed frame or a bottom trundle bed can be used as a large tortoise table if it has solid sides all around. You can easily add a solid bottom, if the base is made of slats. Then just waterproof it.
Ready-made tortoise tables and pens
Zoo Med now manufactures a 36"x24" wooden tortoise table that you can purchase ready-made. It can be used indoors or outdoors, and it is modular. You can remove the end panel and attach two houses together for a larger tortoise table as your baby tortoise grows. Zoo Med also makes a small wooden outdoor tortoise play pen with a hide box.
Rabbit cages
Some owners like to use plastic bottom rabbit cages
as enclosures for baby tortoises. They are useful if you have curious or unpredictable dogs or cats! However, if your tortoise (other than a Star) is an avid climber, he might get tangled in the bars.
Links
There are numerous ways to set up a tortoise enclosure. Below are links to some housing related pages I've found while surfing the web. These links do not support any specific set-up, but cover a variety of ideas. As always, read as many resources as possible. Then create an enclosure that's suitable for your tortoise species in your environment and conditions. Observe your tortoise in it, and adjust as needed!
Do note that many of the European tortoise set-ups are for various Mediterranean species (Greek, Hermann, Marginated) and Russian tortoises which may not need quite as high environmental temperatures as Star tortoises. Mediterranean and Russian tortoises, unlike Stars, tend to be diggers and climbers, too. They need an enclosure with burrowing substrate and escape-proof walls.
Adult, egg-laying females will also need a deep nesting area if they are kept indoors. See links below.
Indoor set-ups
- Basil - plastic reptile tub on a table (Redfoots need high humidity, so you'd need to modify the contents for a dry area species like the Star tortoise)
- Egyptian Tortoise - indoor tortoise pen for Egyptian tortoises made from a Waterland tub, by Fred Erwin Jr
- Hatchling Haven - basic setup for a hatchling, by Darrell Senneke
- Hatchling Haven - setup for arid species, e.g. Indian Star, by Darrell Senneke
- Herppi.net - photos of a 3-story tortoise table with wire netting on the sides, FIN
- Info Tortuga - a wooden outdoor box on wheels, many photos, ESP
- Konnat - a wooden table with plexiglas front, with photos, FIN
- Pet Tortoise - instructions for building a very simple hatchling tortoise table, UK
- Reptile Channel - Indoor Tortoise and Turtle Table Housing, includes minimum size recommendations (for tortoises the length of the indoor pen should be at least 6-7 times the carapace length and width 4-5 times), by Chuck Schaffer
- Reptiles1 - plastic tub setup for Leopard babies (Rabbit pellets are not recommended as a substrate anymore. In addition, many allergic people have problems with them because they smell and mildew.)
- RFUK - UK bb, indoor enclosure section, lots of pics
- Russian Tortoise - Rubbermaid pen for Russians which are diggers and climbers, unlike Stars (allergic people could not use the Timothy hay)
- Shelled Warriors - UK bb, indoor tortoise enclosure section, lots of photos
- Shelled Warriors - UK bb, step-by-step instructions with photos for building a 6.5 ft x 2.5 ft wooden tortoise table (If you keep it inside and are allergic to raw wood smell, you'll have to use low VOC varnish or paint to seal it. Good for water proofing, too.)
- Slowcoach - pen for Mediterranean tortoise hatchlings made from an underbed storage box, by Bob Elliot, UK
- Slowcoach - wooden tortoise table with legs for Mediterranean hatchlings, by Bob Elliot, UK
- Sulcata Station - wooden tortoise table (people with allergies could not use hay)
- Tortoise Forum - bb, enclosure discussions
- Tortoise Forum - bb, reptile room full of 3-story tortoise tables, many photos
- Tortoise Forum - bb, building a 3-story tortoise table, pics
- Tortoise Trust - Basic housing for hatchlings
- Tortoise Trust - Constructing a Simple Open-topped Tortoise Enclosure, by Sue Brooks (This wooden tortoise table uses small plastic tubs inside the table. Ideal if you like to keep live plants in an indoor tortoise habitat. Just switch between flats of plants as needed.)
- Tortoise Trust - UK bb, another wooden tortoise box with smaller, substrate-filled plastic boxes inside
- Tortoise Yard - wooden tortoise table with legs and see-through front panel, by Vicki Hale
Indoor nesting
Substrates
- African Tortoise - substrates
- DIY Network - Tortoise Care Tips video, by Ian Recchio of L.A. Zoo (some information in this 2001 video is outdated, e.g. do not use rabbit pellets or pine chips as substrate)
- Herp Care Collection - Substrates for Reptiles, by Melissa Kaplan, updated Apr 2007
- Herp Care Collection - Substrates for Reptiles: Caveat Emptor, by Melissa Kaplan, updated Apr 2007
- Russian Tortoise - substrates, by Joe Heinen
- Tortoise Trust - Understanding vivarium substrates, by A.C. Highfield
- Tortoise Trust - Understanding microclimates in captivity, by A.C. Highfield
- VA Reptile Rescue - How to choose substrate for your herptile, by Bonnie Keller
- WCT - Turtle and Tortoise Substrates, by Chris Tabaka DVM, 2003
Lighting & heating
- ATP - Guide to UV-B Lighting, by Richard Lunsford, 2005
- Herp Care Collection - Lighting and heating for reptiles, by Melissa Kaplan, Apr 2007
- Reptile Channel - Reptile Lighting Information; by Frances M. Baines, MA, VetMB, MRCVS, Jun 2009
- Reptile UV Info - use of Ultra Violet Radiation (UVA and UVB)
- Solartech - Solarmeter 6.2
- Tortoise Trust - Understanding reptile lighting systems, by A.C. Highfield, Aug 2008
- UV Guide UK - Special Report:
A problem with some of the new high UVB output
fluorescent compact lamps and tubes
- UV Guide UK - Using the Solarmeter 6.2 UVB meter
- UVB Meter Owners - yahoo discussion group, testing UVB sources for reptiles with Solarmeter 6.2
Fire & safety
Miscellaneous
- BBC - Turtles prefer the 'city life', by Jody Bourton, Oct 2009; Exerpt: "...scientists have found a turtle that does better in a suburban habitat than it does in nature reserves."
- Drs Foster & Smith - articles on feeding, basic care, and common health problems
- Tlady's - How to measure your tortoise, straight carapace length (SCL)
- Tortoise Group - treatment of drowning in tortoises
- Tortoise Trust - 7 rules for successful tortoise keeping, by Chris Tabaka DVM
- Tortoise Trust - UK bb, humidity and pyramiding discussion, incl. observations of humidity in natural habitats in Spain by A.C. Highfield, Feb 2010
See also the Star tortoise housing p. 2 for more about indoor enclosures and hide boxes and housing p.3 for outdoor enclosures.
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